From Solil to Bjelil

My image "Tulip on a bicycle" is a consequence of the series "Bicycle through Vojvodina" that I have been writing since the time of the coronavirus pandemic when, prevented from traveling abroad, I set out on two wheels to explore the villages of Bač, Banat and Srem. That's why, wherever I go, the hosts offer me to go around their neighborhood on a bicycle. This time it is the Luštica peninsula Bay of Kotor where I discovered many hidden corners that most visitors Montenegro she didn't even hear.

I started from the Luštica Bay golf course, the first with 18 holes in Montenegro, from which you can see either the open sea or the waters of the Bay of Kotor from every position. It was created by the famous South African golfer Gary Player whose last name is evidence of a Latin saying nomen est omen. Gary Player (89) started creating golf courses after retiring from the sport - he built over 400 of them around the world, starting with the one in South Africa's Sun City more than 50 years ago.

photo: mihael Đuričić

I descend to a place called Solila, whose name suggests that these were once the fields of the local saltworks, where salt was extracted. In the past, it was even a place of uncontrolled hunting and fishing, and today it is a protected reserve where birds can be "hunted" only with a camera, but so that they are not disturbed. Salts are one of the remaining marshy coastal sites for birds on the eastern coast of the Adriatic, which, due to the abundance of food in the shallow water, is their wintering habitat and one of the most important resting places on the migratory route (Adriatic Flyway). This natural pearl of about 150 hectares in the Gulf of Krtol is the first protected area of its kind on the Montenegrin coast. The birds can be observed from the two observation towers in the reserve or from the viewpoint located along the main road towards Krtoli. So far, 178 bird species have been recognized and registered that have a permanent habitat or occasionally visit Solil. Let's just mention that two flamingos appeared in September 2020.

I continue along the coast and reach Kakrac. The specific microclimate of this secluded part of the peninsula, the gentle wind, the smell of salt and herbs in the air, the wooden boats in the water and on the shore, give a picture of the landscape as from some old postcards. Here in the sea there is a large presence of fresh water from numerous sources (one of them is right on the coast in the center of the settlement), so that the sea around Kakrec, according to the findings of the Institute of Marine Biology, turned out to be the cleanest on the entire Montenegrin coast.

Right next to Kakrac are Bjelila. Due to the abundance of springs and fertile land, this area was rich in vineyards and gardens full of lemon and orange trees in the past. One of the sources, Frutak, is responsible for Bjelila having that name. Namely, in ancient times Bokeljka came here to wash or "bleach" their clothes. What gives this place its soul are the stone houses, about twenty of them, some of which are more than 700 years old! They were built similarly, the ground floor - a tavern that was used to store wine, fishing nets, equipment for boats and the like, and one floor - for housing. The courtyards are decorated with laurel, rosemary, olive and fig trees. From the terrace of one of them, a dog was barking continuously, apparently disturbed by my presence. Soon an elderly woman appeared, whom I asked who owned the half-demolished stone house right on the shore. "Well, the problem is that there are more of them! One is from Novi Sad and comes occasionally, but they don't fix anything!", she says.

I pass Krašiće, a well-known tourist place, and there the road separates from the coast and goes uphill. We pass by the Church of St. Panteleimon, in whose gate is the cemetery. The temple was built of stone, and was renovated in 1902, as written on the inscription above the door. I reach the very top of the peninsula, from which you can clearly see Prevlaka in the Republic of Croatia. Down there, there are numerous attractions that can only be seen from the sea: near Rose beach, a fishing boat has been stranded for years, and right next to it is a former shelter for submarines. While it was in operation, two submarines could fit in it, and they could also load mines and torpedoes, as well as recharge their batteries with electricity from the generator that was installed there. "Rakite" and "Spilice", two other military facilities located on the coast of Luštica, east of Ross, were in use until the beginning of 2000 and today they are formally in the possession of the Navy of the Army of Montenegro. In addition to the three tunnels, the former Yugoslav Navy in Boka Kotorska also had four so-called camouflage moorings - at Vitoglav near Risno, two near Perast, one between Cape Gospa od Anđela and Stoliv, while another camouflage mooring was located outside the bay, near Bigova. The tunnels were intended for concealment from enemy reconnaissance and for protection from aerial attacks by smaller warships such as gunboats, missile and torpedo boats.

photo: Robert Choban

Nearby, on the very coast, is the old fortress of Arza, built in the 19th century as part of the Austro-Hungarian defense system of the Bay of Kotor. This circular fortification, with thick stone walls and a strategic position overlooking the Adriatic Sea, provided crucial control over the approaches to the bay. Today, although abandoned and partially ruined, Arza attracts visitors with its historical significance and spectacular views.

A few days later, I landed by boat on the islet opposite Arza, which the locals call Mali Žanjic. I thought I would just wait there for the other boat that was supposed to pick me up when I heard Father Jovan's voice. He is a priest who takes care of the small Orthodox Church of the Presentation of the Holy Virgin. He invited me and served me an excellent herbalist. He says that he is from Herzegovina and explains that the church has no windows because during the winter the waves are so big that they would destroy its interior.

Nearby is also the Blue Cave - a natural phenomenon that leaves anyone breathless who finds themselves inside, bathed in blue light. The sun's rays, passing through underwater openings, create stunning blue tones in the water inside the cave.

At the very end of the Luštica peninsula are the Kabala and Luštica fortresses. The cabal was built of stone, iron and concrete from 1895 to 1897. On the first two floors there was a barracks, with a kitchen, warehouses and rooms for the army. The combat section with artillery, mercers and howitzers was placed on an open roof platform. The Luštica fortress is the so-called "twin fortress" of Kabbalah and had identical construction methods and combat techniques. Neglect, meteorological conditions and nature have taken their toll, the vegetation is slowly conquering these two buildings and they, unfortunately, resemble those near Barbariga in Istria, which I wrote about in this place two years ago.

Before returning to Luštica Bay, I stopped by the Moric Olive Farm in the village of Tići, which has been organically certified for agricultural production and processing of olive oil for 17 years, which the members of the Moric family successfully connected with tourist activity - the popular "agritourism". According to the principles of traditional agriculture, farming, olive growing, animal husbandry, which they learned from their ancestors, father and mother, the Moric brothers connect the circle of production with recycling, rural with modern technology, and local food with tourist tasting and education. On an area of six hectares, they grow a total of about a thousand trees, some of which are more than 300 years old, and there are also new plantings. They are proud of the ancient "yellow house", which occupies the largest part of the olive grove, as well as the old mill, which is driven by the power of a donkey or a horse.

Ilija Moric, a professor at the Faculty of Tourism and Hotel Management in Kotor, teaches me how to recognize quality olive oil. "With oil, it is important to test the smell and taste. We have two steps with the smell: first we heat the oil in some professional conditions - that is 27 degrees Celsius, and since our body is warm at 37 degrees C, we reach the temperature by holding a glass with oil with both hands to warm it. Heating is important because when the oil is a little warmer, then the aromas are stronger. The second step is to cover the cup with one hand and shake the oil, mixing it in intends to concentrate the aromas and prepare them for smelling. In a few seconds, we quickly raise our hand and inhale the scent!", explains Ilija Moric. When asked about the origin of the surname Moric, Ilija answers: "Throughout history, sailors from various parts of the world came here, and some got married and settled permanently, so our distant ancestor from Spain decided to stay on Luštica!"

I finished the cycling tour on the coast and washed off the sweat and dust of Luštica in the sea on the beach of the Chedi Hotel, which the waiters had already begun to arrange for the big Indian wedding that would take place there the next day. In order for everything to be in line with their tradition, the newlyweds made an unusual request to the organizers, to which they received a positive response. Yes, if you want to rent an elephant for a wedding in Montenegro, that is also possible.